What
Endures
Sept
24 2021
A
rogue wave out at sea.
Killer
frost in late spring.
That
freak blizzard in early fall
when
summer was still in the air.
When
the old tree was in full leaf,
and
left the lawn littered
with
broken branches and shattered limbs;
wet
gloppy snow
too
much weight
for
it to bear.
Which
is the nature of weather
and
helps keep life interesting.
But
didn't kill the tree,
its
deep network of roots untouched
lifeblood
intact.
So
next season
its
remaining branches would cast shade
provide
habitat
and
drop a mess of bruised apples
that
will brown and rot,
attracting
nuisance bears
who will lumber in, as usual
stoking up their winter fat.
We've
come to expect sudden change,
mercurial
weather
unpredictable
storms.
And
so are grateful for the things that persist,
crab-apple
jelly
apple
butter
apple
sauce.
And
the whole house
redolent
of apple pie
that
turned out a little sour,
cooling
on the counter
in
a golden fall.
Once again, the “First
Person” essay in the Globe inspired a poem. I give full
credit to the author not only for the image of the snow laden tree
and its recovery, but her pleasing litany of crab-apple jelly /
apple butter / apple sauce.
FIRST
PERSON Michelle Christopher’s passion for making jam has seen her
through personal grief and a global pandemic
ILLUSTRATION
BY APRIL DELA NOCHE MILNE
When
I hear those lids ‘popping’ on the cooling jars, I know I’ll
feel as accomplished as I did on the first try.
Almost
no one I know makes jam, but it keeps my friends happy, anticipating,
so I keep making it. And I give it all, or nearly all, away.
or
the first time since before the pandemic, I meet a friend for brunch.
I furtively text “en route,” knowing I would be late again. It’s
a running joke. My friends are used to meeting me at “ish” time –
12ish, 7ish, whatever. They are very patient with my pathological
tardiness, but to be fair, I always reward them with jam.
This
time, it’s strawberry-rhubarb and blackberry-gin. “My mom’s
rhubarb,” I tell him.
“Oh,
your mom’s.” My friend emphasizes the last word. He hugs me
again.
I
can’t remember the first time I made jam, but it was at least 30
years ago.
That
long-ago spring, with two small kids in tow, as my husband and I
unpacked and set up in our new house, the tree in front bloomed
overnight. Later on, we were delighted to find the blankets of
flowers had turned into crab apples. A gift! Waste not, want not, my
mother had always told me.
That
fall, I stood in the overgrown grass and plucked off the apples,
which by then had turned a gorgeous crimson, kissed by the late
September sun. There were a lot of apples. For the first time, I
borrowed my grandmother’s blue-speckled canner and splurged on a
flat of jars. I started with crab-apple jelly. Then apple butter.
Then apple sauce. I felt oddly accomplished when I heard the little
“pop” of the canning lids settling into the cooling jars. Good, I
thought. This will last the winter.
For
years, I repeated this back-to-school ritual. As the kids settled
into lessons and music and dance and sports, I picked crab apples,
and I made a lot of jelly. And apple butter. And apple sauce. I gave
it all, or nearly all, away.
Later
on, I added other jellies and jams to my repertoire. Some years, I
did up pickles and beets. At Christmas time, antipasto. But the
favourite is always crab-apple jelly, which I have perfected to a
crystalline, stained-glass ruby red. Not cloudy. Not runny. Perfectly
wobbly. Just like grandma used to make, my friends tell me.
It’s
a quirky, old-time hobby. Almost no one I know makes jam, but it
keeps my friends happy, anticipating, so I keep making it. And I give
it all, or nearly all, away.
After
my mother died, it finally occurred to me that all that jam and jelly
making was important to me, too.
Her
death was sudden. A blood clot, then she’s gone. It was the first
of September. The summer had been hot, but not too hot. The crab
apples were still green, fat from the late August rains. On the day
of the funeral, it was unusually cold and then it began to snow. A
freak snowstorm descended: full-on, blowing, whiteout snow. Heavy and
wet, the crab-apple tree was still fully leafed-out and laden with
fruit. The branches snapped and broke with the weight of the snow. It
was as if the rage and sorrow I felt turned into weather. It was
awful. The tree was broken, and so was I. And so I hibernated. I
grieved. I did not make jelly. I did not make jam.
When
the pandemic hit, I grieved anew. It felt like another death. Life as
we know it is suddenly snatched away. Kids, far away, can’t come
home. Work turns virtual and we are cut off from our colleagues. We
can’t see our friends. Even grocery stores are daunting.
With
reports of an impending lock-down, I drove to my mother’s small
Prairie hometown. I visited her grave and stopped at a nearby marker
dedicated to the memory of those who perished in the influenza
pandemic between 1916 and 1926. Ten years, a pandemic! Ten years! I
can’t bear the thought. I think of my grandmother, who lost two
babies in one year back then. And yet, she lived. More children
arrived, including my mother. Life went on. Life goes on. And so,
defiant, I resume making jam.
Citrus
fruits, the first gift of winter, provide lemon curd, then,
marmalade. A stroke of luck brings Seville oranges to my local
market. For many years, I could not find them. Somehow 2020 brings me
Seville oranges, not from Spain, but California. They will have to
do. I look, but cannot find my mother’s recipe for Seville orange
marmalade. The internet recipe will have to do. I make the marmalade.
It is spectacular.
Next
is strawberry jam, then raspberry, then rhubarb, with or without the
strawberry. The vibrant scarlet hues of these fruits evoke a
never-forgotten trip to Paris in springtime, where the menu of our
Left Bank bistro was entirely devoted to les fruits rouges.
Incroyable!
Blackberries
begin to feature prominently in late spring and early summer. In the
first pandemic midsummer, I decide we all deserve boozy jam, so I
experiment, pairing fruit with gin, Cointreau, Grand Marnier, even
rum. For the big kids only. This year’s blackberry-gin is
sensational; nuanced, complex. A big kids’ treat. No one says no to
these jars.
July
is cherry month, also the month when my daughter was born. I smile,
remembering how I stood sideways next to the cherry bins in the
supermarket, far too pregnant to reach the cherries any other way.
It’s her favourite, not surprisingly.
July
and August bring the stone fruits: pear, peach, apricot, plum. The
recipe for peach-pear jam was handed down to me, along with one for
rose-petal jelly, from a beloved friend’s mom, no longer with us.
“Use
fragrant roses” I read, trying to decipher the spidery handwritten
notes. “Remember to leave ½ cup chopped petals for the tops of the
jars” texts my friend.
When
we talk about where to find the most fragrant roses, we pause. I know
my friend misses her mom more than she can say. I do, too.
This
year, I make the rose-petal jelly myself for the first time. It’s
not as good as Vera’s. How could it be? My mom, always approving,
would have loved it anyway. I make a second batch with roses from my
son-in-law’s childhood garden down the road, hoping it will cheer
us up, distract us all from missing the now-adult kids too much.
Meanwhile,
as the pandemic wanes, the crab apples grow and ripen on the tree
outside the front window. The house, aging, like us, needs a
renovation. Perhaps we do too, but this September, we will start the
jam cycle again. When the crab apples are ripe and beautifully red, I
will again stand in the overgrown grass and pluck off the apples.
And
when I hear the lids “popping” on the cooling jars, I will feel
as accomplished as I did on the first try. Then, I’ll give it all,
or nearly all, away. Life goes on.
First
Person is a daily personal piece submitted by readers