Big
Golden Sultanas
March
3 2019
When
I was young
I
would pick-out the raisins, one-by-one;
nose
wrinkled, eye narrowed,
dissecting
raisin bread
of
its squooshy contaminants.
I
think fastidiousness comes naturally
at
that tender age,
when
the tongue is not yet jaded
and
the bitters taste more bitter
and
big golden sultanas
are
squishily suspect.
When
a powerful sense of purity
orders
our lives.
When
we find constancy reassuring,
and
seek-out fixed boundaries
to
explain the world;
like
the moat of gravy
walled-off
by mashed potatoes,
peas
and carrots
not
permitted to touch.
I
did not know, when I was young
that
raisins were descended from grapes
prunes
the progeny of plums.
But
was put off by both;
concentrated
food, in a wrinkled container
that
was unlike other fruit
and
came from who-knows-where.
That
seemed more the stuff of old people,
with
their liver-spotted hands
and
oddly medicinal smell.
But
if I closed my eyes
raisin
toast was irresistible,
its
crisp caramelized surface
buttered
gold,
soft
centre
sweet
and moist.
And
as I am now old myself
I
have less regard for purity,
more
tolerance
for
the ambiguous and complex.
Because
I have learned from evolution
that
diversity confers resilience.
And
because taste has taught me
that
difference is salt,
a
pinch
improving
almost every dish.
That
sweetness complements bitter,
and
who wouldn't wish
to
be the hot habanero
in
a pot of slow-cooked stew.
Fresh
grapes
in
their deep purple skins
are
turgid, juicy, perishable;
like
fleeting youth, soon past their prime.
While
dark brown raisins
are
durable and wizened and dry.
Each
deeply wrinkled exterior
as
unique as each of us.
Such
pleasing resistance
soft
and firm, at once.
The
concentrated sweetness
and
hints of early wine
that
can only come
in
the fullness of time.
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